choice for relic hunting. It also works great
for coin hunting too. Hunting trashy areas is slightly
more difficult, due to the only "problem" I have found with the
1266; EXTREME sensitivity! I have dug minnie
balls @ 20"! Not all the time, just when really listening to those
faint sounds. Sometimes power lines cause some
chatter, but if you can stand the buzz, you can still find relics.
Just keep hunting and dig everything over 4 to 4.5 in
a camp. I use #2 set @ 6.5 to 7 to determine whether it's brass or
lead (I still dig even if it's not!) Lot's o' luck to
disc 1 at 4 and disc 2 at 5 1/2, sensitivity with the knob
pushed in and start at 9 o,clock position with the coil
close to the ground,(make sure there is no metal under the coil)
turn clockwise until you get chatter then turn
counterclockwise until the chatter stops. There is only one tone
but after using awhile you will hear variations in the
sound that will allow you to decide whether to dig or not. The 4
setting should reject nails, so if you get a signal at
4 in disc 1 that don't repeat in disc 2 you will know it's between
nails and low foil range. Everything that repeats in
disc 2 should be dug when relic hunting. I used a 1266 for 6 years
and usually dug everything over 4 when relic
hunting. These settings were based on my 1266 and might vary a
little on yours but should get you very close.
Good choice for a relic detector. Good luck,
of depth and noise. The 1266 is noiser than most over rejected
targets but use it awhile and you not only get
used to it, the noise begins to make sense. You will get signals on
iron but there are variations in the audio that will
help ID bad targets. There will be a pop or break in the audio on
most iron that tries to come through. I used one
for 6 years and it still is one of my favorites. A friend has been
using one ever since they came out for coin hunting.
He sets disc 1 to just accept nickels, disc 2 to reject retangular
tabs and can tell nickels 9 times out of 10 by the
reject sound. Like most motion detectors, it has a hard time
rejecting round rusty things but for a single tone
detector it's surprising how many variations you can hear after you
use it for awhile. Great detector. Good luck.
First the 1266-X is a great detector definately one
of my favorites. The 1266-X likes iron as well
as all metals, the 1266-X will hold its own with a CZ as far as
depth goes. Depends on the ground conditions
which on will go deeper. The 1266 likes dry ground and the CZ works
better in wet ground. Leave it home at
home when hunting a salt water beach. I prefer a slow swing to
pinpoint my targets as the pinpoint mode on the
1266 can be a tad loud. It doesn't have VCO as it is more like
rachet pinpointing on the XLT or an IDX.
made a wise decision in getting the '66 This is a very simple
machine to use, and with a little practice you will
be digging great stuff with it. Settings will be different,
depending on the type of soil you have up there to hunt in,
but if you set your sensitivity to the highest point possible
without chatter, you will dig the deepest targets. Until
you get familiar with the machine, I would use a low sensitivity
setting, though. As far as discrimination, remember
that gold tunes out @ the same point as pulltabs (& nickels too).
Use as little disc. as possible on #1 and use #2
@ 5.5 to 7, (use #2 to determine if you have silver or other pure
metal- alloys will tune out, pure metals will give
strong signals even in high disc., but high disc. may cause loss of
depth) Hope I'm not confusing you; if I am, read
your manual and that will suffice when added together with
my opinion and take it for what its worth....any machine will
get more depth in the water as conductivity is
increased...1280X in my opinion is basically a 1266 in a waterproof
box and the CZ20 is a CZ in a waterproof
box with the salt switch locked on. Heck test your 1280X on the
land and expect more depth in the water.
know of any specific site for the 1266X but I have used it
several times. Depending on your situation as to
how to set it up. I feel you are going to "hammered sites" and
looking to see if you can find a few more goodies?
If that is the case then set your disc (1)to just break up on foil.
Set your disc (2) to cut out just above nickle. If
you hit a good sound then thumb the disc. to see where it cuts out
(remember to reset it after each target)--you
know the drill. Last but not least----max out the sensitivity and
adjust downward over each target. This takes
some practice but if you want amazing depth that's what it takes.
Go slow and play---the goodies will come.
8.In a very trashy area I will use just disc#1 and set it to about 8 or 9 which knocks out most trash.You will lose nickels and most gold but still get the clad and silver.Then if you have more time you can go back with a lower disc utilizing both disc modes.Nice lightweight detector.